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A turbocharger is a turbine-driven forced induction device that increases an internal combustion engine's power output by forcing extra compressed air into the combustion chamber. Turbochargers are commonly used in petrol and diesel engine cars. As the name suggests, old turbochargers are obsolete or outdated turbochargers. Despite being old, they still function well and are used by many people. The old turbochargers differ in types, as discussed below.
Single Turbochargers
Single turbochargers use a single turbine and compressor wheel to force additional air into the engine. They are popular due to their simplicity, affordability, and low weight. Single-turbochargers can be further divided into:
Variable Geometry Turbos (VGTs): VGTs alter the geometry of the turbine's vanes to optimize performance at various engine speeds.
Wastegate Turbos: These rely on a wastegate valve to regulate boost pressure and are the most common type in the past.
Twin Turbochargers
Twin turbochargers have two sets of turbines and compressor wheels. They offer more power and quicker spool times but are more complex and heavier. Twin turbochargers can also be divided into twin sequential and twin parallel turbochargers. In parallel systems, both turbos work simultaneously, while in sequential systems, one turbo is smaller than the other, and they work together in a sequence.
Natural Aspiration
Natural aspiration is a method used to draw air into the engine for combustion without using a turbocharger or supercharger. Instead, it relies on atmospheric pressure to push air into the engine's intake manifold. Naturally aspirated engines tend to be simple and are less expensive compared to forced induction methods. However, they lack the power and efficiency that come with forced induction.
Superchargers
Superchargers are similar to turbochargers because they force more air into the engine to improve power output. However, they differ in that superchargers are powered by the engine's crankshaft, whereas turbochargers are powered by exhaust flow. This makes superchargers drain more power from the engine compared to turbochargers. Superchargers can be further divided into roots, twin-screw, centrifugal, and vane superchargers.
Engine Size:
Some old turbochargers can be used on small engines. The engine size is often listed in the specifications. For example, an engine may be 2.0 liters in size.
Boost Pressure:
The boost pressure is how much extra air the turbo adds to the air going into the engine. This is measured in units like pounds per square inch (psi) or bar. The boost pressure affects how much power the turbo gives the engine. A higher boost pressure means more power. The specifications will list the boost pressure in psi or bar.
Compressor Wheel Size:
The compressor wheel is what spins around to pull in air and push it into the engine. The size of the wheel is given in millimeters (mm). A bigger wheel can move more air but may require more power from the engine to spin it.
Turbine Wheel Size:
Like the compressor wheel, the turbine wheel size is also given in mm. This wheel works with the exhaust side of the turbo. It pushes the exhaust air out of the turbo. The turbine wheel size also impacts how much work the exhaust has to do to spin the turbo.
Material:
The material used for certain parts of the turbo is specified as well. For example, some turbos have wheels made of aluminum or titanium. Different materials affect how strong and how light the wheels are.
Turbo Lag:
Turbo lag is a delay in getting full power from the turbo. Specifications include how much lag there is, measured in seconds. Shorter times mean the turbo responds faster when stepping on the gas pedal.
Oil Changes:
The old turbochargers depend on clean oil to keep the moving parts lubricated. Be sure to follow the schedule for changing the engine oil. This is usually every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. Using fresh oil helps the turbo last.
Quality Oil:
Using oil that meets the manufacturer's requirements in the owner's manual is essential. Look for oil with the right viscosity rating. This ensures the turbo gets proper lubrication.
Cool Down Time:
Before shutting off the engine, let it run for a few minutes. This allows the turbo to cool down. High heat is bad for the turbo if the car is turned off immediately.
Air Filter Maintenance:
The air filter should be checked regularly, too. A clogged air filter makes the turbo work harder to pull in air. Be sure to replace the air filter as recommended, usually every 12,000 to 15,000 miles or sooner if dirty.
Check for Oil Leaks:
Inspect under the car and around the turbo for any signs of oil leaking out. Oil leaks can cause problems over time. If any oil leaks are found, have them fixed right away.
Turbo Cleaning:
A build-up of carbon deposits in the turbo can occur. This is more common after extended use. If the car has been driven for long distances, a cleaning agent made for turbos should be run through the system.
Check Wastegate Operation:
The wastegate regulates boost levels. Testing with a gauge is the only way to confirm it is working as specified. If boost pressure seems too high or low, the wastegate may need to be adjusted or replaced.
Monitor Performance:
Be aware of how the car drives, too. If acceleration feels sluggish or if there are any unusual sounds from the turbo, something may be wrong. Any performance issues should be looked at right away.
Choosing the right turbocharger for a vehicle can be a complex decision. Here are some factors to consider when selecting a suitable turbocharger:
Turbo Size:
The turbo size is an essential factor to consider. Larger turbos generate more power but have lag time before the boost kicks in. Smaller turbos have little to no lag but produce a lower power ceiling. It's about finding the right balance for the driving needs.
Engine Size:
Ensure the turbocharger is compatible with the vehicle's engine size. Some turbochargers are designed for smaller engines, while others work better with more significant displacement engines. The turbo needs to match the engine for optimal performance.
Type of Turbocharger:
Different types of turbochargers are suited for various driving styles. For example, a variable geometry turbocharger (VGT) is excellent for those who drive in stop-and-go traffic or on hilly roads. VGTs provide better low-end power and efficiency. Consider the driving habits and choose accordingly.
Purpose:
Determine the intended purpose of the turbocharged vehicle. A more significant turbo may be desirable for increased power and performance if the goal is to track the car. A smaller, more efficient turbo may suffice for daily commuting needs.
Budget:
More significant, high-performance turbos tend to be more expensive. Additionally, VGTs and twin-scroll turbos come with a higher price tag compared to single-scroll or wastegate turbos. Set a budget beforehand and find the best turbo within that range. Remember, investing in a quality turbo can pay off in the long run with better performance and fuel efficiency.
Replacing a turbo is not as easy as it seems. However, with the right tools and knowledge, it’s possible to replace a turbocharger using a DIY approach.
Read the manual to understand the turbocharger system in detail. Get the right tools for the job. This will include a socket set, a torque wrench, pliers, screwdrivers, and a gasket scraper. Some protective gear like gloves, safety glasses, and shop towels will come in handy. Remove the heat shield over the turbo using a 10mm socket. One can also remove the heat shield without removing the turbo by using a 8mm ratcheting nut driver.
Next, disconnect the turbo inlet pipe. Depending on the model, this might require a 7mm or 8mm hose clamp. Loosen the clamp and slide it off, then pull the pipe out of the turbo. After this, loosen the two 5/16" nuts that hold the oil feed line to the turbo.
Now, disconnect the oil drain line. Loosen the two 1/4" hex head screws that hold the drain pipe to the turbo. Then, remove the exhaust downpipe. Depending on the model, one might need to remove several 13mm bolts, a 15mm nut, and a 14mm bolt to get the downpipe free. One might also have to remove the O2 sensor from the downpipe. After this, disconnect the wastegate actuator rod from the turbo.
Finally, remove the old turbo by loosening the 13mm bolts that hold it to the wastegate actuator and the 14mm nuts that hold it to the exhaust manifold. Now, the turbo is free and can be replaced with a new one.
Q1: What are the common causes of turbo failure?
A1: Turbo failure can occur due to various reasons. The most common one is wear and tear, which is a natural consequence of prolonged use. Other causes include lack of lubrication, damage from foreign objects, excessive heat, and manufacturing defects.
Q2: Can users prevent turbo failure?
A2: While turbo failure cannot be avoided entirely, there are measures people can take to reduce its likelihood. Maintaining proper oil levels, using quality fuel, regular maintenance, and allowing the engine to cool down can help the turbo last longer.
Q3: Is it necessary to replace the turbo with a similar one?
A3: It's not mandatory to replace the old turbo with a similar one. Users can upgrade to a more efficient turbo. However, if they choose to replace it with a different kind, they should ensure that it is compatible with the engine.
Q4: Can a turbo be repaired?
A4: In some cases, completely overhauled turbochargers can be repaired. However, if the unit has extensive damage, it is more cost-effective to replace it with a new one. The decision depends on the level of damage and the cost of repair versus replacement.
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